Monday, March 23, 2020

Mini Games to Play Online

Not much new to report.  I am still contemplating the stripe color on the exterior of the house.  I have made a new top for the enamel-top table and am working on the stairs now but haven’t made much progress.  My home office shares space with my craft room, and at the end of a long day of working from home, I don’t want to spend any more time inside those four walls! *sigh*  We've been binge-watching a lot.  We zoomed through all the episodes of "The Repair Shop" on Netflix (I can't recommend this show highly enough), and yesterday watched all eight episodes of "The Stranger."

I know many of us are sheltering in place these days, as we try to stop the spread of the Corona virus.  For those of you going a little crazy shut inside and who want to take a break from making minis (wait—who would want to take a break from making minis??), here are a couple of fun online suggestions.

The first is an old one, but may be new to some of you:  The Game of Thornes on the Chicago Art Institute Web site,, which uses several rooms from the Thorne Rooms display.  It plays like one of those old quest games (“You are standing in a room, with a door on the right hand side”), only instead of typing in “go left” or “go right,” you click on areas in the pictures to move around or examine things.  You have to make it through the maze of rooms and collect letters for the password in order to escape.  Although it’s part of the archive, it still works, and I was able to escape.  ๐Ÿ˜‰

For those who like scavenger hunts, there is  Each hunt has a series of clues, the answer for which is always a geographic location.  Type your solution into the Google Maps box and, as needed, zoom in to find it on the map.  If your answer is correct, you’ll be taken to the next clue.  There are around 290 hunts available, and it does help greatly to do the tutorial first.  You don’t have to be signed in to do a hunt.  You can also make your own hunts, so I made one for my mini friends:  I think most of you will find it pretty easy, but maybe you’ll also find it a little amusing.  When you make a hunt, you can choose to add information and links on your answers, and I tried to go for sites that had interesting content and good eye candy.  If something doesn’t work correctly, please let me know.

Hope you are all staying safe and healthy, and enjoying plenty of time to work on your minis!

Monday, March 16, 2020

A Long Overdue Post

It's been a long time since I posted, for a couple of reasons.  One is that I was working on another swap.  This one is an anonymous swap.  We all filled out questionnaires, and then we were assigned one person to make for/send to.  We of course got the questionnaire of our swap-ee, and I was so inspired by what my person liked and wanted that I had to start working on it.  Unfortunately, everything remains a secret until the recipient receives the swap, so stay tuned.  ๐Ÿ˜Š

The other reason is that I was having some difficulty with the deco house.  I got the texture I wanted with my spackle and put on a nice coat of Wicker White.  I carefully marked off the stripes with painters tape, including some special 1/8" painters tape I had to buy from Amazon, as I could not find it locally.  The blue I choose required a lot of coats to cover, and I ended up letting it dry longer between coats than I should have, I guess.  When I removed the tape, large chunks of the blue came with it.

I was pretty horrified.  So horrified, in fact, that I went back to working on my swap (which was going much, much better) for another week.  It is now finished.  Last weekend, I peeled off the loose edges, sanded, reapplied the tape and repainted, removing the tape as soon as my last brush stroke was on.  Because I had already aligned all the stripes, I could do one section at a time, which also prevented things from getting too dry before it was time to pull off the tape.  It still needed some touch up, and I'm not super happy with the result, but it's certainly better than it was.  (The roof and second story are still the foam core versions.)

And now I'm wondering if it will be OK to have those blue stripes with the mauve interior.  I don't usually worry about the exterior vs. the interior, but on most builds, you don't really see the exterior right next to the interior.  What do you think?

At the same time I was having problems with my stripes, I was inspired by a photograph I found online to build a little utility table/cabinet for the kitchen.  I needed a work table anyway, and I liked the additional storage, as space is tight in my tiny kitchen.

My first try was an unmitigated disaster.   My plans called for me to cut a lot of the wood to shape, and I don't do well cutting wood by hand.  So that got put on the back burner, too, until this weekend, when I redrew my plans to rely mostly on standard widths and thicknesses of strip wood.  I don't know why I didn't do that from the start.  This is how it turned out.

Not absolutely identical, but pretty close.  The top is currently not glued down but stuck on with double-sided tape.  (You may notice that the side edges are lifting a little.)  I'm trying to decide if I like it or want to try again.  I put a deco design on the "enamel" top, which is made from matboard and cardstock.  Because I did that, I couldn't paint the top; for now, I used clear nail polish to give it a bit of gloss.  (I have to get some of that Krylon Triple-Thick that Jodi uses!) However, because it hadn't been given a base coat of paint, the black paint around the edges seemed to bleed a lot, and I'm not crazy about that. 

I am happy that the door and drawers work!

I used a vintage linoleum pattern I found online as my drawer liner and to line the bottom shelf.  I turned the left-hand drawer into a silverware drawer and the right-hand drawer into a catch-all drawer.  

Almost all the items are from an etched metal set.  The silverware is a little plain (and the spoons don't really have bowls), but I figure they're going inside a drawer, so they're fine.  The catch-all drawer needs a bit more in it.  So far it has a couple of spatulas, a wooden spoon, scissors, can opener, and meat fork.  What else should I include?

Here is the table against the wallpaper I am testing in the kitchen.  This is not the wall it will be on, but was the easiest wall to photograph.

To leave you all on a happy note, I had a new arrival from the Netherlands.  (Yes, I know you can't take a train across the pond, but let's pretend.)

The tiny little bear on the left is my newest addition from AlexandrasBears, whose bears are positively addicting.

He is absolutely adorable and every bit as detailed as his larger brother.  ๐Ÿ˜Š  For the time being, he is sitting on the bed for the deco house.

I started working from home last Friday, and, as of tonight, my city is on lockdown.  Don't know how long this will last.  Hoping we are able to nip this outbreak in the bud, and that our lives can go back to normal soon.  Please stay safe and healthy!

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

The Walls Are Going Up

It was a three-day weekend for me this past weekend, so I got a lot done mini-wise.  First of all, I finally got all my swaps done, and they are on their way to the swap organizer.  Yay!  So nice to have that off my to-do list.  Second, I got the first-floor walls (the ones that get glued down anyway) primed, sanded and up.

I didn't take pictures of all the clamping and weighting as I glued them in, but I did take pictures of doing the curved wall.

For that wall, I used 1/16"-thick matboard.  To prep it for curving, I scored it vertically at roughly 1/8" intervals for its entire width.  The scoring went fairly deep, but not all the way through the matboard.  Before I started, I had marked it at 2" intervals to ensure that I wasn't going too crooked with my scoring.  I also took a break from scoring every so often and gently worked on opening up the "ribs" I had made so that they would curve properly.  When it was completely scored and opened, I wrapped it around a bottle of Aleene's glue to train it.  Once I had it curving the way I wanted it to, I cut out the window.  I discovered when doing the mock-up that it was much harder to get my wall to curve properly once I had removed that large section for the window, so it's curve, then cut.  Here it is fully scored with the window partially cut out.

I then wrapped it around the curved section of the floor and glued it down.  The piece above the window got a bit wibbly as I was fixing it in place, so I cut a temporary half disk and wedged it in to encourage the proper curvature.

Next I cut and curled medium-weight cardstock (again, training it around an Aleene's bottle), removed the window section, and glued it in place.  You can see I needed to trim a little bit around the top after gluing.  The good thing is that gluing the cardstock to the matboard strengthened the upper curve, and I no longer need my temporary ceiling form.

It's reassuring that the foam-core mock-up fits on top. ๐Ÿ˜Š


My intention is to skim coat the exterior with spackle, sand a bit and then paint, to give it more of a stucco texture.  I don't want the exterior too rough, but I also don’t want it to look like wood.  I may put my ceiling form back in place while doing this.

Before gluing in the walls, I cut a groove for my floor lamp, the one non-ceiling fixture I intend to have.  No more tape wire—round wire all the way!  The lamp is made from a kit by Jane Harrop.  She had provided a wood strip for the pole; I replaced it with hollow metal tubing so that I could run a grain-of-rice bulb through it.  I tried several options for the shades:

The first is the original shade that came with the kit.  Fine, but blah.  The second was a similar shade with fringe.  Um, no.  I then found some patterns for stained glass shades online.  Most of the ones labeled Art Deco looked more Prairie to me, but art deco did have some of its roots in the designs of Frank Lloyd Wright.  I tried coloring in the dragon-fly lamp by hand; that didn't work too well, and I wasn't thrilled with its look in the room.  I used Word's shapes to color in more geometric lamp shades.  On the first one I tried for a gold-and-silver look.  It didn't look all that gold when printed out, and I didn't like how narrow the top was.  I modified the design a bit and replaced the "gold" with mauve. I think that's the one I'll go with.  Currently, it's just printed on paper, but I'll be printing it out on vellum for a more translucent look.

Finally, I tried out some options for the walls.  These are some scrapbook papers:  The one on the fireplace wall has a pearl-like embossed finish that I thought looked very art deco with its concentric diamonds. I also like the mauve metallic color, but it might too much for the entire room.

I do like the mauve in the piano alcove.

I looked for art deco wallpaper borders and found this fabulous one that apparently was a Bradbury & Bradbury product, although I can no longer find it on their Web site.  (P.S. for 1:12 scalers:  For those who don't already know it, Bradbury & Bradbury sells many of its wallpapers in miniature, which I think is a marvelous idea.  I wish more wallpaper designers did, and I wish B&B offered theirs in half scale.)  (Ooh, that reminds me of another aside:  Have any of you been following the House Beautiful "Dollhouse Beautiful" challenge, annoying though it may be at times?  Did anyone notice that one of the designers apparently got Kohler to make bathroom fixtures in 1:12 scale just for her?  Whaaaat?  How do the rest of us get that?)

Getting back to the border, it wasn't the right colorway, anyway, so I created my own version using shapes in Word.  This allows me to use whatever colors I want and tweak them at my whim.  I think this design could work in conjunction with one or both of the wallpapers above.  What do you think?  Ideas? Suggestions?  (And, yes, those of you who encouraged me to keep the purple chair fabric, or at least wait before making any decisions—I'm very glad I did. ๐Ÿ˜Š)

Enjoy the week and all the mini time you can get!  Your comments are always welcome and appreciated!

Monday, February 10, 2020

Tiling the Ground Floor

This past week, I was busy tiling the ground floor in the deco house.  I have always wanted to try the tiles from, and I finally had the opportunity for this build.  I chose the black-and-white "Marlike" tiles; this seems like a slightly more elegant house (I like Carrie's idea that a Hollywood starlet lives here), and I liked the look of the "marble" tiles.  In addition to his stand-alone Web site, he also has an Etsy store.  Because my mother had given me a generous Etsy card for Christmas, I purchased on Etsy, ordering two of his "diamond" packs and two packs of the regular ½" squares.  The diamond packs come with additional triangles (half squares and quarter squares) for laying out a diamond design.  The tiles are very well made, and I was extremely pleased with them.  While I do have some left-over tile, I used all or part of every pack.

I quickly determined that there was no layout that wouldn't require cutting some tile.  *sigh*  So I decided that the most important thing would be to have clean edges on the sides that open.  Those are the edges that will actually be seen, and I figured that any wonky or imperfect cuts on the enclosed wall sides could be hidden by baseboard (I hope).  There are two open sides—the front, which opens onto the living room, and the left side, which opens onto the kitchen and dining room.  Because the flooring has to flow throughout the entire ground floor, I had to be strategic in the layout of my tile.  Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of my process, so I have made some graphical representations of what I did.  They don't match my floor exactly, but you'll get the gist.

I started by using some double-sided tape to stick down a few tiles along the front (living room) edge.  I laid out enough tiles to reach just above the groove for the left wall.  I obviously couldn't glue them down because their positions would likely move, but the double-sided tape held them in place.  I then measured to the tip of my top tile.  I marked that distance in a couple of other spots along the front, then used my 18" ruler to draw a line through my marks all the way from one side of the floor to the other.
 Next, I removed my tile and tape, and starting gluing down tile from the left edge.  I made sure the tip of my first (white) half tile was on the line, and that the top and bottom tips of my black tiles were also on the line.
I continued laying tile from left to right, making sure that the tips of my black tiles stayed on the line.
Once I got beyond the left wall groove, I also started filling in toward the front edge.  I figured if anything wasn't quite right and I had to pop loose some tiles, the fewer the better. ๐Ÿ˜Š
When I had made it all the way across, I filled in the lower left side.  It may look like there is a clean edge at the bottom of the left side, but in fact I had to trim the bottom edges of the half tiles just a bit, and I will likely sand or file the tips of the white tiles to ensure that the wall can fit flush against the base.  Then it was just laying and cutting and laying some more.  It felt like doing a jigsaw puzzle.

Cutting the tiles is not easy.  Scissors or other shears don't work because they crack the top of the tile, and it takes several passes with a utility knife to get through those little suckers.  When I got  to the rounded edge, I looked at all those curved little bits and slivers I would have to cut and wondered whatever had possessed me to try to do a floor like this.  If only I had tiles that were easier to cut!   I decided to experiment.

I took a photo of a tile, sized it to ½ inch, and made several duplicates of the image.  I then printed them out on double-sided matte presentation paper (which is the thickness of card stock), using my printer's "best" setting.  It took some fiddling with the image settings to get the variations in the "marble" to show up properly.  My white tile isn't exactly right, but it's pretty close and not obviously different once laid.  Using some heavy-duty glue stick, I glued the printouts to some thin chipboard.  The thickness of the double-sided presentation paper and the chipboard together were pretty darn close to the thickness of the tile.  After giving them four coats of clear gloss nail polish, I decided I had something I could work with.  I wouldn't use my fake tiles on the main part of the floor, but they work fine along the rounded edge, which won't be that visible and will be partially covered by baseboard anyway.  The most important thing is, they are easy to cut!

And here is the finished floor, which took way longer than I had expected, but I am pleased with it.  Now I'm ready to start on the walls.

On a side note, while I was doing one of my searches of the Internet for art deco inspiration, I came across this:  I am not sure what enchants me most:  the fact that the book was originally created as a miniature volume for Queen Mary's dollhouse; the fact that the story is about an elegant sprite who takes up residence in Queen Mary's dollhouse; or the charming period illustrations that, to a very large extent, evoke my conception of the inhabitant of the deco house. I think deep down I'd love it if the sprite came to live in my house.     ๐Ÿ˜‰

Have a great week!  The days (in this hemisphere) are finally getting noticeably longer, and I enjoy every extra minute of daylight.  Thanks for stopping by!

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

The Wood Has Arrived!

When last I wrote, I was thinking about getting the walls for my house laser cut, and I ended up doing just that.  I had gotten some laser-cut circles for the roof of the house from Dennis at FatDance on eBay.  Some of the circles were custom, and I was impressed with both the quality of the wood and the precision of his cutting, so I asked whether he could do the walls.  He said he could, and he even let me send all my specification in a Word file.  That meant he got some 15 pages that looked like this:
All the designs were built using "shapes" in Word, and the shapes were both the exact dimensions I wanted and labeled with their dimensions.  These were what I used to cut the foamcore, but I did have to label (and clean up) all the pieces.  I had done a bit of eyeballing on some of my window placements, and they all needed to be evened up.  Dennis then translated all of this into the software he needed to use to cut the wood.  He even caught a typo on my part.  One window shape was 3" x 2½, but I had accidentally labeled it 2" x 2½.  He checked with me before cutting to make sure he got the dimensions right. 

While I was waiting for the wood to arrive, I began prepping for the build.  I cut a sheet of 1/8" plywood to 17" x 12" using my table saw.  I figured I could probably handle that cut.  ๐Ÿ˜Š  I measured and marked where I wanted the top and side edges of the house to be.  Then I then cut out my pattern on the inside of the lines and lined it up carefully against my measurements, using double-stick tape to hold it in place.

I traced around my pattern so that I would know exactly where to lay the pieces.  It's a bit faint, but you can see it below.  I was ready for my wood!

The wood arrived two days earlier than expected, and I could not have been more thrilled.  It was neatly packaged in plastic baggies and well wrapped in bubble wrap.  Everything was exactly right.  Here is my dry fit of the first floor:

As you may be able to tell from the picture, the long back piece wants to bend a little, so it is living under a set of weight plates until I am ready to use it.

The base of the first floor was designed in pieces.  I had originally done that because I thought I would be cutting it myself, and I figured it would be easier for me than trying to make the narrow slots for the walls.  That is how I did the floor in the foamcore mock-up.  I kept this design even when I decided to go with laser-cut pieces, which is why tracing the pattern was so important.

Here you can see me gluing the pieces down.  I used the walls only as placeholders to help ensure that I got the spacing correct.

You can see that I had started painting the base but had to stop when I realized that the green paint was so dark it was covering up my lines.

Between the pieces where the floor will be, I glued 1/8" x 1/8" strip wood, checking carefully against my wall pieces.  Then I puttied and sanded, as well as finishing painting the base.

Finally, because I read on Jodi's blog that, when working with the floor tiles I had chosen, it's a good idea to paint the floor with one of the tile colors, I gave the floor a coat of paint.  The tile I've selected is a black and white "marble," but the black has a bit of gray to it, so I chose a dark gray paint for the floor.  I then sanded for a smooth surface, and the floor is ready for tiling!

In fact, I have already started tiling the floor, but more on that process in my next entry.

Have a great week!  Thanks for stopping by!

Saturday, January 25, 2020

Bedding, Fireplace and a Decision

I have made an important decision regarding the deco house.  I am going to have the wall and flooring pieces cut for me.  I am absolutely incompetent at cutting a straight line.  I do OK with the chop saw and the table saw (sort of), but a house requires more precision, and it requires cut-outs for doors and windows.  When I worked on the Sagamore Hill room box, the door and window openings were a bit . . . wavy.  I was able to disguise imperfections with my windows and door trim, as well as the veneer on the outside, but I'm not sure I'll have the same opportunities with this house, plus there are a lot more pieces.  So, I have sent the specifications off to someone who does laser cutting of 1/8" plywood, and my fingers are crossed that he can do the work.

While waiting, I finally finished the bedding.  I am not super happy with the pillows, and I may do them over, but this is it for now.  I like the luxe look of the charmeuse, as well as the contrasting texture of the silk shantung.

The silk charmeuse was not the easiest thing to work with—it's slippery!  One thing I learned from the Internet (yay, Google!) is to cut it between two pieces of paper.  That's a bit hard on the scissors, but I wasn't cutting that much, and it really did make the silk behave.  When I ironed it, I ironed around a template made of card stock.  That made it easier to get those little turned-under edges straight(er) when I ironed.  In place of sewing or gluing (which discolors the silk), I used Stitch Witchery.  Even that I had to be careful with; a couple of times when it melted, it also caused discoloration.  I used lots of magic words when working on the bedding, but in the end, I think it's acceptable.

I also made up the fireplace.  I realized that I need to know its footprint for when I do the flooring, so I opened the kit and had at it.  One thing I really love about Shannon's kits are the notches she cuts into pieces that need to fit together.  They ensure that I put the pieces together correctly and don't need to eyeball the alignment.  All the pieces are cut beautifully—no sanding or tweaking to get them to fit.

I admit, in doing my research online, I came across what I think was the prototype for this fireplace, so I mimicked its tile work pattern as much as possible.  The kit has all the tiles laser etched onto the pieces, but you can, of course, fill them in with any color(s) you choose.  I went with black and white (duh), with a gold tile for the center piece.  I liked the warmth of the gold in the middle of all that black.  I also went with a black mantel.  I considered staining the wood cherry, but when I held it up against the tile, I just didn't like it.  After trying to decide between gold and silver for the decorative pieces, I realized I should just use both, since there are going to be both gold and silver in the room. When I look at the picture, the silver piece seems a little plain.  Maybe I need to add a tiny bit of gold embellishment?

To get the cleanest tile I could, I decided not to paint, but to use a process similar to the one used by Emily Morganti in her half-scale backsplash.  Unfortunately, I didn't have any punch that cut squares of exactly the size I needed, so I cut them myself using an X-Acto knife and a piece of strip wood of the correct width as my template.  I first tried scrapbook paper, but decided it was a bit too thick so went with the only other black paper I had—origami paper.  I also had some white origami paper of the same thickness, so this worked well.  I used gold craft paper for the center tile. After painting the sections to be tiled a warm white for the "grout," I glued on my little squares and rectangles. This definitely took the longest.  Any irregularities in the tile are due to my cutting and pasting skills, not Shannon's laser etching.  Then I used a toothpick to completely coat each square with some clear Gallery Glass, being careful not to get it in the grout lines.  On those occasions where I did get it in the grout lines (it was hard not to between those teeny rectangles, which are about 1/32" wide), I immediately scraped it out with the tip of a clean toothpick.

Here it is in the room.

I think it works well.  (Please excuse the lousy taping job on the wall.  I had to remove the wall to cut a slightly larger opening for the fireplace insert and had a terrible time taping it back in place.) It's definitely going to need something above it.  Maybe an octagonal mirror?  I like that this one even has beveled edges.

That's it for now.  Keeping my fingers crossed on the walls.

Have a wonderful weekend, and thanks for stopping by!

Monday, January 13, 2020

A Small Art Deco Update

I have ordered some materials for the art deco house and, while waiting for them to arrive, have been playing around making things for the house.  (Yes, I should be working on my swap, but I will get that done, too.) 

First of all, my half-inch painter's tape arrived. I tested out stripes with it, and much prefer it. 

For comparison:

The half-inch tape is a darker blue as well, and therefore closer to the color I will actually use when painting.

I also worked on the vanity for the bedroom.  The vanity is made from a kit by SDK Miniatures.  Something had gone a little wrong in the cutting of the base structure pieces, as their tops and bottom edges were all on a pretty severe angle, and I was worried about how it was all going to go together.  I ended up creating my own base structure with some wood I had on hand.  The rest of the pieces (drawer fronts, sides, top, spacers and handles) were all perfect.  I followed Susan's suggestion to make the vanity two-tone, using both Golden Oak and Dark Walnut Minwax stain pens.  Two-toned furniture was common in art deco.  I gave it a shellac finish and swapped out the mirror card for some real mirror, and I think it's a lovely little piece.

I added a laser-cut dresser scarf I had on hand and my mannequin head with the flapper headband.  I also added a brush, hand mirror and cosmetics from a Mini-Etchers 3-D printed set.  Unfortunately, I don't see it on her Web site, but I'm sure you can contact her about getting a set.  I got mine at one of the Weebly online mini shows, in which she regularly participates.  They come attached to a bar for easier handling and include the mirror, brush, lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, three bottles of nail polish, a tube (toothpaste?) and a spray pump bottle. I painted all the items while they were still attached to the bar, only doing a bit of touch-up after clipping them off.  I then immediately super-glued them to a little vanity tray I had made from a watch part, circle of mirror and some silver-painted fairy lace.  The little items are so tiny (most are smaller than a grain of rice) that I was terrified in between clipping and gluing that I would sneeze and lose them all!  The left-over card mirror from the dresser came in handy for cutting an oval for the hand mirror.

You can see the silk cushion on the vanity seat.  It's from a Mood swatch of silk charmeuse called "colonial blue."  I've decided I want rich colors in the bedroom.  I am going with the colonial blue, with some ivory and eggplant accents.

Of course, once the vanity was done, I had to make the matching bed.  That kit went together just fine, although I always find it helpful to shave down the mattress piece to accommodate the bedding, especially when it must fit within a restricted space (e.g., has a footboard or side cabinets).  I removed around 1/8 inch each from the length and width of the mattress before I started dressing it.  The bedding is still a work-in-progress.  My first attempt at the coverlet was not very successful, and I need to rethink how I will do it, but I do have the bed finished through the blanket stage.  With the sheet and blanket, it's a perfect fit.  The coverlet is designed to not take up any more space in the restricted areas.

While looking at inspiration photos for bedding, I saw some beds with breakfast trays and decided I needed to have one.  ๐Ÿ˜Š  The tray itself it made from cherry wood, using the same technique I used for the replacement shelves on the drinks cart.  The egg cup (you can probably tell) is an earring back, with a half egg made from air-dry clay.  The cup and saucer were metal minis; I had them on hand, so just painted them.  The coffee is still in the process of being built up from Gallery Glass in this photo.  The two plates were made from paper, shaped, coated with nail polish, and finished with a bit of "Liquid Gold" around the edges.  My better half told me the one with the peacock in the center looked like it had a mustache (๐Ÿ˜ฎ), so I ended up using the other one.  The toast is a bit of styrofoam shaved out of the center of a piece of left-over foam core; I colored it with pastels and glued a very thin strip of brown mulberry paper around the edge to create a crust.  The little dish of marmalade was made by snipping bits of orange embroidery thread and mixing them with yellow and orange Gallery Glass in a small bead cap.  The lovely rose was a gift from Debora (Dalesq) on Greenleaf.

Here it is all put together.

For fun, shown next to a postage stamp:

I honestly thought they'd be the same size.  I was surprised that my tray was smaller.

The other addition to the bed was the (non-working) lamp.  If you do a search on art deco lamps, you'll see many shaped like a female figure holding the ball of the lamp.  Here are some examples:

For my lamp, I purchased some N-scale "swimmer" figures.  Unfortunately, the one I wanted to use had her hands attached to her face.  I guess she was doing the breast stroke?  I had to clip them away and clip her arms, then attach two small pieces of wire to create the extended arms I wanted.  I was supposed to get swimmers with extended arms, but, to my annoyance, the swimmers I got looked nothing like the ones pictured when I ordered them.  *sigh*  You can see the join in the picture, but it doesn't look too bad in real life.  I then attached her to a base, painted her a dark bronze, and glued on a glass bead for the light.

My own art deco lamp!  I would love to make a working model, but given how thin and delicate the figure is, there would be no place to thread the wire.

That's it for now.  Have a wonderful week, everyone.  My wood circles and my black-and-white Marlike flooring tiles have arrived, so I hope to start working on my base soon.